Crochet Pattern Maker

Turn a grid into a crochet chart and a written pattern in the order you actually work it.

Crochet chart
Technique
Colours in this chart
Chart Written pattern

What this tool does

Draw your design as a grid of characters and get both a colour chart and a written pattern. For corner-to-corner the pattern is given in diagonal working order, which is nothing like the order the grid is read - and that difference is what makes C2C hard to follow from an ordinary chart.

Converts a character grid into a colour chart plus a written row-by-row pattern, in corner-to-corner or tapestry mode.

Gives the pattern in the order you actually work it, including alternating row direction, rather than simply listing the grid rows.

How to use it

  1. Choose corner to corner or tapestry.
  2. Draw your design using a dot for background and a letter for each colour.
  3. Keep every row the same length.
  4. Print the chart, or copy the written pattern.
  5. Start from one of the sample charts and edit it, rather than typing a grid from nothing.
  6. Use the colour key to see which letter is which colour and how many stitches each one takes.

Why use this maker

Turning an image or chart into a stitch pattern means working out colours and the order of rows by hand. A chart plus a written row-by-row pattern, with alternating direction handled, saves hours.

Why we built it

We built the crochet pattern maker to write the pattern in working order, not grid order, because corner-to-corner is worked diagonally. Track rows with the knitting row counter and simplify a picture with the pixel art generator.

Who this tool is for

  • Crocheters turning a picture into a chart
  • Pattern designers
  • Crafters making blankets and bags

When to use it

  • Making a blanket, bag or tapestry from a design.
  • Pixel-art style crochet.
  • Converting a grid into written instructions.
  • Planning colour changes.

Why the written pattern is not in chart order

This is the whole point of the C2C mode.

Corner-to-corner crochet is worked on the diagonal. You start at one corner with a single block, increase along the diagonal to the widest point, then decrease to the opposite corner.

That means row 5 of a C2C pattern is a diagonal line across the chart, not the fifth line of the grid. Working from a plain grid chart requires the maker to trace diagonals themselves and keep track of direction, which is where most C2C mistakes happen.

This tool computes those diagonals and lists them as rows, with the colour runs in working order. The chart is still there to look at, but the written pattern is what you follow.

The direction alternates every row. That is not a stylistic choice - it is what keeps the work flat, and a pattern that ignores it produces a twisted piece.

Tapestry crochet and row direction

Tapestry crochet works in ordinary straight rows, carrying the unused colour along the top and crocheting over it, so it stays hidden until you need it.

The catch is that flat work turns at the end of every row. Odd rows are worked with the right side facing, reading the chart right to left; even rows are worked from the wrong side, reading left to right.

A pattern that lists every row in the same direction produces a mirrored motif on alternate rows, which is subtle enough that you often only notice it several rows later. The written pattern here reverses alternate rows and labels which side you are on.

Worked in the round rather than flat, every row is a right-side row and no reversal is needed - which is why so many tapestry patterns are written for baskets and bags.

UK and US stitch names

This trips up nearly everyone working from an international pattern, because the same word means a different stitch in each country.

The same stitch, two names
UK nameUS name
Double crochet (dc)Single crochet (sc)
Treble (tr)Double crochet (dc)
Double treble (dtr)Treble (tr)

So a US pattern saying "dc" means a UK treble, one stitch taller than a UK "dc". Working a UK pattern with US conventions gives a piece that comes out noticeably shorter and denser than intended.

The written pattern here names both, so it can be followed either way without conversion.

What you give it, and what you get back

Input and output of Crochet Pattern Maker
ItemDetails
InputA character grid, one character per colour.
ModeCorner-to-corner or tapestry.
OutputA colour chart and a written pattern in working order.

Issues you may run into

Common problems with Crochet Pattern Maker
What you seeWhy it happensWhat to do
A row is paddedRows are unequal length.Make every row the same length.
Size is unknownGauge depends on yarn and hook.Make a swatch to calculate it.
Stitch type differsSingle crochet is assumed.Adjust the written pattern.

Assumptions and limitations

Frequently asked questions

What is corner to corner crochet?

A technique worked diagonally from one corner, building blocks along each diagonal - increasing to the widest point, then decreasing. It produces a pixel-like grid that suits charted designs, which is why it is popular for blankets.

Why is the written pattern not in chart order?

Because C2C is worked on the diagonal. Row 5 of the pattern is a diagonal line across the chart, not the fifth row of the grid. Working out those diagonals by hand is where most C2C mistakes come from.

What is tapestry crochet?

Colourwork in ordinary rows where the unused colour is carried along the top and crocheted over, staying hidden until needed. It produces a dense fabric that suits bags and baskets, and lets you change colour mid-row without cutting.

Why do alternate rows read the other way?

Because flat work turns at the end of each row. Odd rows face you with the right side out and read right to left; even rows are worked from the back and read left to right. Ignore this and alternate rows come out mirrored.

What is the difference between UK and US stitch names?

They are offset by one. A US double crochet is a UK treble; a UK double crochet is a US single. Working a pattern with the wrong convention gives a piece noticeably shorter and denser than intended.

How do I choose a chart size?

Work back from the finished size. Make a small swatch, measure how many blocks or stitches per centimetre you get with your yarn and hook, then divide the size you want by that figure.